Steve, the owner of the Windsor Plywood store in Cranbrook, BC, sent in these custom bowties made for a customer live edge project. A bowtie inlay is a type of joint used either to hold two or more wooden boards together or to keep two halves of a board, that have already started to split, from splitting further. Traditionally, these inlays were painstakingly crafted to fit into hand-carved and chiseled recesses. But today, all you need is a plunge router and a simple inlay kit.
I thought I’d drop you a few pics of the stuff I’ve been building with your material.
1st is a really low quaility pic of the bookcases and fireplace mantle. All made of Maple and Maple plywood. These are the 1st pieces I made and I kinda wish I’d used Cherry.
After that, I started in on the living room. Everything is solid Cherry, no plywood (with the exception of the sides of the corner cabinet). It was a bit of a pain to plan the table tops, but they turned out OK.
Windsor Plywood’s Advertising Manager, Greg, sent in photos and comments about the 11MM Bevel Cork flooring he installed at home:
“We’ve been in our house for just over a year and had an 11′ x 10′ ground floor room with old carpeting that was not in bad shape but needed to be replaced to make the room more comfortable. The rest of the house is hard maple hardwood and this was the last room with carpet.
Old foam underlay beneath the carpet over concrete but it always felt cold to walk on and being carpet was hard to keep clean. We decided to replace it with 11mm cork tiles.
Utility knife and a good pair of scissors (for cutting the underlay)
Ruler or T-Square
Gorilla Tape or Tuck tape
Flooring install kit with spacers, tapping block and pull bar
A box of finishing nails and construction adhesive (for reinstalling existing baseboards that need moving)
Wood T-moulding for under the door
Prep: Used a hygrometer to measure the room temperature and the relative humidity levels. I normally keep our hygrometer upstairs where we have solid hard maple hardwood flooring throughout our main level, stairs and upstairs bedrooms. For cork flooring, the room should be between 17-23 degrees Celsius with a relative humidity of 45 – 60 percent. The room is on the front of the house, always in shade and even on the hottest summer day the room only gets up to 23 degrees Celsius with the windows closed and A/C off.
Pulled up the old carpet and underlay. Carefully pulled up all of the old carpet tack strips around the perimeter of the room (strips of wood with small nails through it to keep the carpet in place), then scrapped away any residue and adhesive from the old underlay.
Checked the bare concrete for moisture problems, holes or cracks and evenness. I was able to leave half of the existing baseboard mouldings in place as the cork tiles with the underlay fit under it nicely. For tight areas like the closet and the final row up against the wall with the hallway door, I removed the baseboards to make it easier to click together and drop in the last row of tiles. A small crowbar made removing the baseboards very easy. Pulled out any bent nails in the baseboards through the back side of the mouldings to keep the face side clean for reinstallation later.
The cork is a floating floor so no nailing or gluing required. Unrolled the Quietwalk underlay with the vapour barrier side up and butt taped the lengths together with gorilla tape. I found that the best way to cut the Quietwalk underlay is with a good pair of scissors. I tested making cuts with utility knives, shears and several pairs of scissors but found a heavy duty kitchen pair that cut it very cleanly and easily.
I loosely put down the first roll of tiles along the length of the back wall (which is the longest length of the room) and cut off the tongue along the edge that faced the wall so the tiles fit in well under the baseboards. Also used spacers, so the flooring was not fully against the walls to give room for expansion (required for all wood flooring … though cork is actually the bark of the tree). Used a BladeRunner X2 portable table saw to make my cuts.
A traditional handsaw would have worked fine but the Rockwell Bladerunner (it’s like an upside down jigsaw built into a table) made it very quick, easy and clean (especially with the built-in vacuum hose attachment). Also much quieter for indoor use than a full table saw with a rotating blade and the whole unit is only 15 pounds! Note that the photo does not show the jigsaw blade for safety reasons (quickly and easily pops out when not is use). A great tool for DIYers and quick little jobs. I’ve used it to cut ceramic tiles, melamine shelving, metal bars (to shorten a safety bar hanger that I installed between attic floor joists for a ceiling fan), rip flat stock moulding and for scroll work. However, for very fine cuts for mouldings or very thick materials you definitely need a circular table saw or a chop saw.
The cork tiles click together and you use a tap bar and mallet to make sure the joints are tight; then a pull bar for the end pieces when you don’t have room for the tap bar. With all the tiles down, reinstalled the baseboards I pulled out and just need a piece of wood t-moulding under the door to cover the gap between the cork and the hallway floor.
We’ve noticed a big difference with the cork flooring. It absorbs sound and insulates so the floor is never cold, even in bare feet on a cold day. The Quietwalk underlay gives the flooring an R value. It’s also anti-allergenic, anti-static (no more zaps when walking around in socks!) and is very easy to clean. Prefinished with 3 layers of polyurethane for durability and very comfortable to walk on, not hard like ceramic tile or laminate floorings. No more carpet!
These creative boards are made by Dave Smith from D.W. Smith Woodworking. He began woodworking as a teenager, mimicking his father who was very handy in his workshop. Now, Dave works out of his home in Cloverdale, BC. Though he currently creates smaller items, in past Dave has crafted items such as furniture, done home improvements, and worked on a variety of other projects! And for those of you who love a good puzzle, Dave has even started working on making 3D wooden puzzles!
Dave’s product line includes cribbage boards, cheese and serving boards, sushi boards. He also takes on custom orders like wooden heat register grilles (in a variety of woods) and with original hole pattern designs.
Dave can be found on Etsy and Facebook.
Big thanks to Windsor Plywood Langley for sharing this post!
Below: Solid Bubinga with character knot 10″x15″. Hand rubbed finish with six metal pegs
Below: Padauk and Tigerwood cribbage board showing peg storage.
The following email was sent in by Danny from Integrity WoodWorks. Danny is a custom wood craftsman with over 25 years experience in antique restoration, character home restoration and custom wood furniture.
This was a custom Dining-Games table built for a client. All the wood was hand selected from Windsor Plywood Airdrie.
The client wanted the table to serve a double purpose; as a dinning and games table. I saw it in a different direction and designed a fine dining table that morphs into a very cool games table.
Complete with LAD style of lights around playing surface, custom drink holders that attach to the bottom of the skirts. When not in use, the drink holders disappear and know one would know they existed. A custom opener was constructed to remove the top section. Handy when it’s time to set up for games. One of the coolest ideas for the table, was the user can put the tongue and groove table top over the already, setup game, have a big dinner and come back and continue on with the games.
This piece incorporate hand cut joinery: mortise tenons, floating tenons on long rails.
Equipment used for this project was a router, 6″ jointer and 12″ thickness planner. All the rough stock was planed in-house by Danny.
The tables was then finished off with a hand rubbed urethane finish.
Fantastic job Danny! Look forwards to seeing more projects!
If you wish to contact Danny, his email address:
Gavin was kind enough to send in some photos of two projects made from the same original Fir live edge slab purchased from Windsor Langley. They look great! The computer desk was fabricated using the cut off from the coffee table project, with some Walnut to brace. Very cool!
Pictures of before and after. Using 2 tele-posts as the bar forms. We used a biscuit joiner and glued these two pieces of live edge cedar together to make our bar. A little sanding and of course 2 part epoxy to finish and VOILA! We love it.
The next day, we received this email:
“Here are some pictures of the chair with the front of the house. I usually have it under the Maple tree beside the turquoise bench (that way when we sit outside, we get shade). I do intend to make a second chair for the other side of the bench and likely will paint it the same colour.
Thanks for the painting compliment. I do all the painting and no, I am not a professional—just lots of practice and I enjoy doing it.
We’ve had tons of compliments about the door and the Pedra decking. Thanks.
BTW—the cedar posts will be stained black later this summer—they had to weather for a year first. Plus I’m hoping for less heat. And, if you look closely those are indeed hockey sticks sticking out of the cream can by the door. My son plays hockey—I figured if they had to be kept on the porch by the door, they might as well look good being there. I’m waiting for an epiphany about the newspaper recycle and then that will change!
When I’m done all that, I’ll likely be back at Windsor bugging Brad about the next project!”
As we are now living in our cabin as a year round home our plan was to make the kitchen bigger and make room for a proper water filtering system. We started by enclosing our existing 12’ x 14’ covered overhang. We also moved the dining room wall 4’ to the west. This meant rearranging the existing bathroom and by doing so we converted an existing bedroom into an ensuite and mechanical room. WE are only days away from having everything done (has been a long 4 months). Part of the problem was the original cabin is 50 years old, it has a 30-year-old addition and we are using modern building techniques. The doors are from Windsor Plywood and are made from Brazilian Plantation pine. The cedar beams and all of the pine trim and baseboards are also from Windsor Plywood. We are very pleased with the results and have received a number of compliments.
-152 & 154-exisitng covered deck prior to construction
-173 & 174-covered deck framed in
-193- old living room – 734 & 735 new living room
-194-old bathroom-744 new bathroom
-226-old bathroom from old laundry room-743 new
-242-from proposed new kitchen looking through gutted bedroom that was converted to ensuite and mechanical room-731 & 742 new
-247-dining room wall moved over 4’ -728 new
-248-from proposed kitchen through new dining room and living room-738 new
-250-fom LR through DR and kitchen with old ceiling-728 new
-901-picture of doors before installation
-902-West LR wall-736 new
-730, 731 and 733-new photos
The following pictures were sent in from the Lloydminster, Alberta Windsor Plywood store. The project consisted of two pieces of live edge Maple that were custom stained in-house by one of the staff, Carly.
Here’s a description, “For the sanding I used the Festool Rotex sander started with 80 grit and worked up to 220 grit. I used Varathane brand Oil based stain in the dark walnut colour. And finished with the Varathane brand oil based clearcoat– semi gloss. Hand sanded in between coats 220 grit up to 600 grit for the finish sand”